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The old teak was already
trashed so we just tore it off any way we could.
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f
This shows the old caulk that
was used to seal everything at the factory. Most of it was the consistency
of mud |

I pulled all the bolts out,
replaced them with new 5/16 inch bolts, scraped as much of the caulk as I
could from the joint. Then I used a grinder to dress everything down to
where I could use fiberglass matt and West epoxy to make the joint one
piece. I still wasn't convinced this was strong enough.
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The entire decks and deck
joint were stripped back to the gel-coat
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Here are a couple of the deck
bolts as they came out. |

I decided to put wood bulwarks
on the deck joint. In addition I would add two wale-strakes on the outside
of the deck joint.
Here I have scarfed together all the boards needed to create a 42 foot
bulwark and strake.
These are mahogany and I have for years used west epoxy thinned with lacquer
thinner as a penetrating epoxy. These boards got the treatment on the back
side as well as the face.
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The mahogany treated with
epoxy. It is sanded smooth and once installed we put four coats of clear
AwlGrip over the epoxy.
We have used this technique
for many years and if West System 207 converter is used, it will stand up
very well with little maintenance. |

Above and Right: some of the
planks have been scarfed together, treated with epoxy and sanded in
preparation for installation. |
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These two photos show the
bulwark installed on the inside of the deck joint and the lower wale strake
on the outside.
Once the other top strake is installed, fiberglass matt and epoxy were used
to build up a "U-cannel" between the strake, bulwark and deck joint. Every
piece is installed with epoxy and matt for added strength. |
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Starting the new cover boards.
Note the two wale-strakes on the side of the boat |

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Dry fitting the cover boards
and joining them with a "common scarf". |
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One trick I use for band saw
cutting: When cutting and fitting the cover boards, I temporarily install
them in their exact location. Then I trace the underside of the boards along
the bulwark and the wale strake. Then I take them to the band saw and use
masking tape to average out the curve of the bulwarks & wale strake. This
also gives me the spacing of 3/4 inch for the overhang needed. It also makes
it easier to see where to cut with the band saw just in case, like me, your
vision is starting to fail you! |

Once the boards are cut on the
band saw, I clamp them in place and plane the edges to remove saw marks and
any wobbles in my cutting.
Then I finish the edges with a belt sander and then bullnose the edges with
a router.
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The cover boards are
installed, trimmed and sanded. All ready for 207 epoxy and clear Awlgrip. |

In my quest for organization,
I built-in a small storage box under the bow cover board to keep small items
that are related to anchoring. Seizing wire, shackles, shackle wrench,
pliers and anything needed to handle anchors.
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Starting to fit all the deck
hardware in place. Once we know where everything goes, I'll drill holes and
remove all the deck gear.
We will build-up heavy coats of Awlgrip 545 epoxy primer. Then sand and fair
the areas where things get bolted on.
All the deck gear will then
get bolted in place and masked off for the Cloud White Awlgrip paint and
non-skid.
The reason for this is because if you tighten bolts on something that has
Awlgrip under it, the paint will mushroom out and eventually crack. Once it
breaks open the surface, water can get in under the paint and spread the
cracks
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Left... sanding the first coat of epoxy and applying the second coat. |

Two coats of West Epoxy using
#207 hardener. This will get sanded smooth and then I will give it three
coats of clear Awlgrip.
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Note the small anchor parts
locker..
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